A Travellerspoint blog

ten things that make a saharawi eid l’kabir

sunny 27 °C

one barbecued sheep’s head


two hours trapped (and weeping) in a smoke cloud


three generations of Moroccan settlers in disputed territory

four (hundred) kilometers between our celebration and the land mine ridden ‘berm’


five giant gulps of ‘zrig’ or strawberry flavored camel’s milk

six fat wrapped liver chunks per skewer


seven desert police checkpoints in possession of our intimate personal information


eight strolls past the most popular square in town, paraded by our giddy male Moroccan undergraduate hosts

nine missed opportunities to support saharawi independence


ten seconds to gulp down scalding coffee at bus stop and get the heck out of laayoune

Posted by battle-axe 13:46 Archived in Western Sahara Tagged events Comments (0)

Tan Tan

(still being molly-coddled)

sunny 25 °C



After weeks of steeling ourselves for survival in the bush, Battle Axe, D Dawg and I bit the bullet and hopped on an overnight bus to the South. We'd prepared every necessity for 2 months of primitive camping—a tent soaked in Deet with enough floor space for 3 full-sized Julia's and packs, mosquito net body bags, ultra-violet water purification laser pens, and a full can of automobile fuel for miniature camping stove (and miniature espresso maker!)--all we found useless when we arrived in Tan-Tan.

Alex gets kidnapped in the Sahara

Alex gets kidnapped in the Sahara

Khalti Naima ushered us into her home, offering warmed wheat bread, a hot shower, freshly made beds, and a breakfast that covered two coffee tables. When we'd asked our Moroccan friends of people they knew in the south, in hopes of finding a free place to stay, we had no idea we'd entered into the unadvertised but five-star informal Moroccan Couch-surfing network. Our every need was met before even uttered in our flawless but sometimes lazy Moroccan Arabic. Our true wants (to just stay in Morocco for the next two months) were satisfied as we gave a proper goodbye to the country we've grown to love so much, and repeated the simple things that our Moroccan friends had taught us to love so much. We were henna'd, we danced and we made delicious foods. We posed for pictures in traditional garb, played with babies, and watched Mexican soap operas dubbed in Arabic. We wandered the desert city with cousins Amina and Majda, buying colorful wraps and returned home to pull apart freshly baked harsha, creating the foundation for the healthiest “rifisa” (a mountain of spicy chicken, lentils, beans, and sauteed onions) we'd ever tasted. The thought of setting up camp in a Senegali rain forest seemed far away, if not less and less appealing.



Well-rested and refreshed, we said our goodbyes and grabbed a taxi, off to Laayoune to celebrate the Big Moroccan Holiday (L3id kibir) during our final days in our second home-land.

Posted by Jbrwocky 11:38 Archived in Western Sahara Tagged luxury_travel Comments (4)

The ladies are off!

rain 20 °C


Posted by battle-axe 06:31 Archived in Morocco Tagged backpacking Comments (3)


View West Africa & Jenni Comes to Africa on Dunz's travel map.

Three Peace Corps ladies, Battle Axe, Flames and D-Dawg, decided that they hadn't had enough adventure in Morocco, and so set forth for 'the Real Africa'.
After months of sometimes careful planning, these intrepid ladies decided to brave the southern reaches of Morocco and the coastal highways of Mauritania. They planned to give thanks for the beach bungalows of Senegal and then venture inland on a harrowing 3-day train ride to the former capital of the trans-saharan trade route, later catching a lazy boat ride to the ancient libraries of Timbuktu. They aspire to find a lonely pine tree in the desolate plains of Burkina Faso and ultimately ring in the New Year partying in huts above hippos and finish their journey on the hammock-lined shores of Ghana.
You are welcome to follow our adventures here on our blog or come join us along the way!

-Battle Axe, Flames & D-Dawg

Posted by Dunz 04:38 Archived in Morocco Tagged preparation Comments (1)

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